We have just spent a lovely 4 days with my cousin who lives just North of Leeds; on Saturday we had a trip to Ilkely, walked on the moor which was followed by a rather warmer visit to Betty’s.
With me not being entirely successful in resisting the urge to hum “on Ilkely Moor” we went for a walk, hats firmly on.

I took these pictures 5 years ago on a mid December afternoon. This Saturday the light was poor and I did not want to take my gloves off to take pictures. Pity the people who were without their hats; the wind was bitingly cold, it had snowed the day before, I wanted a balaclava to wear. Even so it is a stunning part of England. In summer it must be even more glorious.

See the Stonemasons' Marks on the rock
Wheear ‘ast tha bin sin’ ah saw thee, ah saw thee?
On Ilkla Mooar baht ‘at
Wheear ‘ast tha bin sin’ ah saw thee, ah saw thee?
Wheear ‘ast tha bin sin’ ah saw thee?
On Ilkla Mooar baht ‘at
On Ilkla Mooar baht ‘at
On Ilkla Mooar baht ‘at
Tha’s been a cooartin’ Mary Jane
Tha’s bahn’ to catch thy deeath o` cowd
Then us’ll ha’ to bury thee
Then t’worms’ll come an` eyt thee up
Then t’ducks’ll come an` eyt up t’worms
Then us’ll go an` eyt up t’ducks
Then us’ll all ha’ etten thee
That’s wheear we get us ooan back

Here is the non Yorkshire version.
Where have you been since I last saw you, last saw you?
On Ilkley Moor without a hat
Where have you been since I last saw you, last saw you?
Where have you been since I last saw you?
On Ilkley Moor without a hat
On Ilkley Moor without a hat
On Ilkley Moor without a hat
You have been courting Mary Jane
You are bound to catch your death of cold
Then we will have to bury you
Then the worms will come and eat you up
Then the ducks will come and eat up the worms
Then we will go and eat up the ducks
Then we will have eaten you
That’s where we get our own back
I think we lasted about 5 minutes before dashing back to the relative warmth of the car and a far warmer tea in Betty’s.
In a county such as Yorkshire which is famed for its frugality; it is a testament to reputation of Betty’s, which is not a cheap establishment, and the affection with which it is held that there was a 30 minute queue for a table at 2.30 in the afternoon, a level of business any restaurant would envy. Judging from the voices around us we were the only Southerners waiting.
Eventually we were seated and handed the menu. Betty’s has an impressive selection of fine teas and coffee (I have since discovered that they own Taylors of Harrogate)and we both choose a cafetiere of their specialty coffee, Nepal Snow River at £5.50 & El Salvador Apple Grove at £4.35 a pot. Both were excellent and well worth the price. We were so impressed with the Nepal Snow River we bought some more to have at home.
We started tea with a Fat Rascal, or a Yorkshire Tea Biscuit which seemed to be a cross between a scone and a rock cake. It was delicious, but we were disappointed by the temperature – despite being served on a piping hot plate with a warm crust the middle of the rascal was still stone cold. Full marks to Betty’s for not using prepacked pats of butter however.

After the scone, we had a look at the cake trolley (£3.35 to £4.25), and chose a chocolate torte and an almond gateau. Sadly, we were slightly disappointed by both, with them being a little dry, and lacking in excitement. Nothing was wrong, it was more that they just did not shine as I would have hoped cakes from Betty’s to do.


Service was friendly, swift and efficient. We were brought our bill without asking for it; a pet peev of mine, but then with the queue not having shortened during our visit, we could understand why, although it was handed over with a smile, and an assurance that we could take as long as we wanted.
I am glad that we visited Betty’s, it is a Yorkshire Institution, but I wonder if it is becoming a victim of its own success and popularity?
I am delighted to learn that Betty’s has a clear ethical policy, building relationships with their suppliers and trading fairly and with responsibility. Betty’s also has a cookery school with some lovely looking courses.












I’m glad you included a translation, I thought it was a passage from Wuthering Heights at first. I went to Betty’s in Harrogate as a prelude to a hen night a few years ago… I can’t say it made a massive impression on me but I’d be willing to try it again.