‘Recipe and images extracted from Summers Under The Tamarind Tree by Sumayya Usmani, photography by Joanna Yee. Published by Frances Lincoln (£20)
I have never visited Pakistan; it might have been possible some years ago, but now with the Foreign Office recommending that travellers avoid several areas of the country, it sadly seems unlikely that I’ll be going in the near future. My parents, however, went some time ago and came back rhapsodising about the apricots grown in the Hunza valley, which is a reminder that while the news might be all doom and gloom, life for the local residents rolls on, and a love for good food and good ingredients is universal. The traditional food of Pakistan isn’t something I know much about, so Summers Under the Tamarind Tree by Sumayya Usmani is a welcome introduction.
Sumayya was born and raised in Karachi and her love for Pakistani food shines through this book. I really like the introductory chapters, giving away the family spice blends as well as painting a picture of her childhood, and learning to cook with her mother and grandmother. It’s not a cuisine with which I’m intimately familiar, but I’m inspired to learn more, starting with some of these recipes. I really like the look of red onion, mint and green chilli Hyderabadi-style samosas, Mummy’s dahi baras (soft lentil dumplings), sweet potato and squash parathas, Dadi’s puris, Afghani lamb pulao, Rose garam masala mutton chops, Hunter beef, Lahori fish, Crispy bhindi, Nani’s salted lemon preserve, Pomegranate and raspberry chutney, hibiscus and Himalayan pink salt, and Mango and chilli papper. It’s really noticeable how much more frequently meat turns up in these recipes than in Indian cook books; it seems as though Pakistan is much more carnivorous than India (with, obviously, unlike in India the Hindu prohibition on beef not applying.)
There are over 100 recipes with many, but not all, illustrated by full page photos. They are clearly explained, with preparation and cooking times given as well as the number of people served. Ingredients are in a side-bar, using a small font that might challenge the eyesight. Recipes are divided between 11 chapters, with a further six chapters giving Sumayya’s background and some details of Pakistani cooking techniques and use of spices. Recipe chapters are: Awakening the senses (breakfast), Tantalising the taste buds (street food and snacks), breaking bread and sharing rice, meaty markets and weekdays bazaars, birds from the Empress (the Empress market in Karachi), sailing the seas (seafood), my grandmother’s garden (vegetables, fruit and salad), home-grown guavas (chutneys and pickles), under motia-filled sky (celebration feasts), the sweet taste of mango heaven (desserts), and chai-pani (hot and cold drinks).
Authentic Pakistani food doesn’t get the recognition it deserves, and I look forward to remedying this oversight with the help of this book.
Crispy Bhindi (Chickpea batter okra) from Summers Under The Tamarind Tree
Ingredients
- 250 g /9oz gram flour
- 50 g /1¾oz rice flour or cornflour (cornstarch, optional)
- 1 tsp red chilli powder
- ½ tsp ground turmeric
- 1 tsp salt
- 1 tsp dry-roasted cumin seeds
- 50 ml /2 fl oz/scant ¼ cup water
- 50 g /1¾oz okra (washed and dried completely before cutting, top, tailed and cut lengthways into 4 thin strips)
- 250 ml /9 fl oz/1 cup vegetable oil (for frying)
To garnish
- 1 tsp chaat masala
- ½ lemon
Instructions
- Mix all the dry ingredients (except the okra) together in a large bowl and add the measured water or enough to make a very thick batter.
- Dip all the okra into the batter and turn until it is coated. Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. When hot, add the okra a piece at a time into the oil and cook until light golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper.
- Serve hot with a sprinkling of chaat masala and a gentle squeeze of lemon juice
Notes
Recipe and images extracted from Summers Under The Tamarind Tree by Sumayya Usmani, photography by Joanna Yee. Published by Frances Lincoln (£20).
We received a review copy of Summers Under the Tamarind Tree. All options our own.
corina
The recipes sound like the type of food I love. Such a shame we are unlikely to be able to visit Pakistan to experience it in the near future.
Helen
Isn’t it. It sounds such an amazing country.
Rachel
These look and sound just absolutely amazing and I adore Okra.
Helen
Okra is my favourite thing – I always order it when it is on the menu.
Noel
Such an exotic place: Pakistan … so far removed from my Ohio, USA landscape in so many ways. This book sounds like a lovely education on the country and culture as well as a collection of recipes. I love books like that! Reading them is like take a short vacation.
Helen
The book is so evocative. I wish it was a place that we could go to.
Priya
I love crispy bindis! they make a perfect tea-time snack!
Helen
I want a big plate right now!
Kaitie
goodness that looks amazing! I love Okra! Never made it this way before!
Helen
Doesn’t it look so good!
Cassandrea Gascoyne
This looks incredible!! I am not sure I can find okra here in Canada… but I am going to be looking for sure so I can make this! If I can’t find it, I wonder what the batter would be like on green beens?!
Helen
I think it would be perfect on green beans!
SG
Try cauliflower or spinach or onions or potatoes or egg plant/aubergine
Helen
That would also be delicious!
Gwen @simplyhealthyfamily
Oh Yum!!! I love okra and really should make it more! Saving and sharing!
Helen
I am slightly scared of deep frying, but this should get my over the fear.
Kara
I was lucky enough to visit Sri Lanka as a child and adore Indian cuisine thanks to the variety of foods I got to try. These look amazing
Sumayya Usmani
Thank you for such a lovely review of my book, Helen x
Helen
Well thank Ed – he wrote it. We cannot wait to get really stuck into it.
Tori Gabriel
These recipes sound delicious. I would have loved to have visited Pakistan. It’s such a shame that the actions of a few hate filled nutters mess up things for everybody. There seems to be a lot of places that are now too dangerous to visit.
Helen
It is such a shame. I need to talk to Ed’s parents about their trip more.
Kerry Norris
This sounds lovely and flavours that we really enjoy as a family x
Helen
It really is a lovely book.
Jenni
These sound delicious, going to pin them for later x
Helen
I cannot wait to make them.
Melanie Edjourian
Those look so yummy and just the sort of thing I would love.
Helen
I love the entire book!
Jenny
That okra recipe looks delicious, and the book sounds lovely.
Helen
I really recommend getting a copy of the book.
Rudolph
Those recipes do sound so good. Really interesting to compare Pakistani and Indian cooking.
Helen
Isn’t it just? Such a fascinating book.
Hannah Budding Smiles
I don’t know much about Pakistani food but these look delicious xx
Helen
It is a fabulous book.
Peter Block
Love the look of this. Sounds like a really cool book. So neat to learn about food from different cultures.
Helen
It is a beautiful book Peter.
Fi Ni Neachtain
Those look really interesting and sound so delicious. I don’t think I’ve ever eaten anything like it before so I’d love to give it a try. I’m all for the creative vegetarian options!
Helen
It is such a lovely book and I am looking forward to trying these.
Jenni
Oh these look amazing x
Helen
I cannot wait to cook them.
Dannii @ Hungry Healthy Happy
I haven’t eaten Okra very often, but I do enjoy it. This is a new way for me to try it!
Helen
I always order okra when we have a takeaway. One of my favourite things.
Raksha Kamat
I love crispy batter fried okras. They taste yummy with rice and dal.
Helen
I love okra, I always order it when we have a takeout.