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You are here: Home / Travel / Exploring the English East Sussex Coast with a Wire-Haired Dachshund

Exploring the English East Sussex Coast with a Wire-Haired Dachshund

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Published on December 6, 2018 by Helen 41 Comments
Last Updated on June 4, 2020

The East Sussex coast is perfect for exploring with (or without) a dog. Friendly beaches, charming towns, superb hotels and restaurants and thriving sustainable and local food scene ; there’s something for everyone.

Herbert the wire-haired dachshund sitting in the open door of the BMW i8 roadster.

Table of Contents

  • Rye and the East Sussex Coast
  • Rye
  • Hastings
  • Battle
  • Camber Sands
  • The Gallivant, Camber
  • Sustainable Local Food
  • BMW i8 Roadster
  • Dogs in Cars and the Law

Rye and the East Sussex Coast

Now we’ve got a dog – Herbert, the miniature wire haired dachshund – travel and holidays need a bit more thought. We can’t simply up and go without any planning, and now need to check whether hotels and places to stay are dog friendly. We were looking for somewhere to go for a short break, and decided on a food and dog focused break in Rye and the East Sussex coast.

Rye

Mermaid Street, Rye, East Sussex. The street is cobbled, and higgledy-piggledy houses look straight onto the street.

Rye is charming; probably best known as the real Tilling of E.F. Benson’s Mapp and Lucia novels, but there’s much more to it than that. We enjoyed discovering all the small antique, collectables and bric-à-brac shops and friendly restaurants for visitors, as well just pottering about the winding streets and admiring the higgledy-piggledy buildings.

There’s something uplifting about being on a high street packed with independent shops and not surrounded by national chains; this extends to the excellent local supermarket, Jempsons, with a branch in Rye and one four miles away in Peasmarsh.

Rye is a couple of hours drive from London and also easily accessible by train, taking just an hour and ten minutes using the high speed line to Ashford and changing there.

Hastings

We then headed West to Hastings. While there are fishing boats that operate from Rye, there are many more on the beach at Hastings. Selling their catch from sheds right on the beach, it’s the place to go for fresh, sustainably caught fish. The RX initials on the bows of the Hastings fishing boats shows that they’re registered to Rye, rather than Hastings which isn’t a port; the sort of fact that appeals to Ed’s inner boat nerd.

A two-part picture: on the left is a fishing boat, taken from ahead, drawn up onto the shingle of Hastings beach. On the right is a sign saying "Todays fish sold on this stall has a carbon footprint of less than 20 miles, from an eco friendly sustainable fishery"

Hastings is less chi-chi than Rye, far more down to earth, but still worth a visit.

We also enjoyed the dog friendly Fisherman’s Museum, jammed in among the black three story net lofts where nets were dried, to get a feel for the history of the trade. The museum also contains a restored Rye Lugger (fishing boat) which you can climb a flight of stairs and go aboard. 

There’s a funicular railway up the cliffs for views out to sea and along the coast, a miniature railway along the beach, a shipwreck museum, Jerwood modern art gallery, and of course excellent fish and chip shops, as well as jellied eels for sale.

A close up on the rear quarter of an abandoned fishing boat, in Hastings. The number RX 83 in a black oval cartouche is clearly painted on the blue topsides. The paint is peeling, and the boat is rotting.

Battle

A picture of the shops on the High Street of Battle, East Sussex.

The small town of Battle – on the site of the 1066 battle, is another draw, particularly for anybody with an interest in history. Little of the abbey built by William the Conqueror survives, but depending on the time of year, visitors can see parts of the building rebuilt after the dissolution of the monasteries. Those interested can explore the history of 1066 through film, audio tours, interactive exhibits and walking the battlefield.

Again, in the town there are plenty of quirky and interesting independent shops, cafes and restaurants.

A picture of the main gate of Battle Abbey, in Battle, East Sussex; the site of the Battle of Hastings in 1066.

Camber Sands

We’re happy to spend time wandering around towns, but Herbert  likes a good run once a day. Camber Sands beach is perfect for him; the whole beach is dog friendly between 1st October and 30th April, (and some of the beach is dog friendly in summer) and when the tide is out there’s plenty of space along the 5 miles of beach for a really good run.

Increasingly upmarket Camber is a short taxi ride from Rye itself.

Herbert, a wire-haired dachshund on Camber Sands, East Sussex. His tail is up and tongue is out, looking very happy.

The Gallivant, Camber

We stayed at The Gallivant, a restaurant with rooms in Camber. Dog friendly (our room came with a sheep skin lined dog bed and bowls, and space in the kitchen fridge for Herbert’s raw food).  We loved the simple decor – think modern Scandi meets beach hut meets ski chalet, friendly staff, relaxing ambiance, and delicious food.

The ski-chalet feel extended to the tea and cake provided to guests in the afternoon: perfect after a brisk walk on the beach.

Dinner was superb, with the freshest of locally caught mackerel and cod, and meltingly tasty Romney Marsh lamb. The bar also has an extensive selection of gin!  The Gallivant prides themselves on paying their staff well and many have located to the coast from high end hospitality jobs in London.

Two pictures of the inside of The Gallivant Hotel, Camber Sands. The left hand picture shows a corner of the lounge, and on the right is a view of the breakfast buffet and dining room.

Sustainable Local Food

I’m a big fan of simplicity when it comes to food. Given a choice between simple, high quality ingredients that are allowed to shine on their own merits, or a technical and complicated tour de force, I will always go for the former. Food at the Gallivant really chimed with us; the kitchen using ingredients from local fishermen, farmers and foragers. Similarly, the wine list includes a good choice of English wine from nearby vineyards.

A top down view of breakfast: eggs benedict, with vibrant orange egg yolks oozing onto a white plate. Bread, coffee, butter and marmalade are also seen. A copy of “Eat, Live, Drive” and a BMW car key lie on the tabletop.

When eating at home it’s easy to fall into a rut, especially if we buy ingredients that haven’t been flown half way around the world. One of the things that I love about visiting restaurants, especially ones that take pride in their sourcing, is getting inspiration for new recipes to add to the repertoire. The take away from this trip is that I’m going to be doing more with celeriac!

To help us find The Gallivant, we used BMW’s i guide to sustainable dining, Live Eat Drive. Curated by Melissa Hemsley, it details over 30 restaurants around the country that showcase sustainability.

A picture of the centre console of a BMW i8 roadster, with a copy of “Eat, Live, Drive” sitting next to the gear lever.

BMW i8 Roadster

I was delighted that we were also offered the use of a BMW i8 hybrid for our trip. I’m no motoring journalist – I don’t have the necessary command of simile or metaphor, or the ability to drive fast and powerful cars to their full potential (Ed is the driver) – (a dab of oppo and all that). Even I, though, was impressed with the versatile BMW.

Smooth, and quiet in town, especially on battery power, it transformed when wanted into a fast and impressive machine that gave real confidence on the road. Herbert, with his German heritage was a fan of the German engineering. It’s also very amusing to be driving the sort of car that generates comments from passers by!

A collage of four pictures of the copper coloured BMW i8 Roadster. The top two pictures show the whole car, one with the semi-gullwing doors open, the other closed. The other two pictures are of a close up on the BMW bonnet logo, and the Roadster sign.

Dogs in Cars and the Law

The law says that dogs must be restrained in the car when travelling, if your dog is loose and causes you to have accident then your insurance could be invalid – the financial and moral implications do not bear thinking about.

Herbert usually travels clipped into in his Solvit car seat in the back, but for short journeys, taxi rides and now sports cars he travels on my lap – wearing an Ancol car harness and attached to the seat belt with a handy webbing loop and clip from Me and My Pets.   Cheap, simple and safe.

A picture of Herbert the wire-haired dachshund in the passenger seat of BMW i8 Roadster. He’s wearing a harness and is tethered to the seatbelt.

We were the guests of BMW for the loan of the car and dinner at the Gallivant.  All opinions our own.

If you’re heading further west, and looking for a dog-friendly hotel then book in to Paschoe House in Devon.

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  1. Shirley Elphick

    I love your blog & recipes Helen, we live in Battle with two miniature smooth long haired dachshunds Bertie & Bruno. There are dogs & then there are dachshunds if you haven’t realised this by now you will soon, they have the characteristics of little people. We go to Rye a lot for walkies x Shirley

    Reply
    • Helen

      Thank you Shirley,

      Dachshunds are such a special breed – they get into your heart and will take over unless you are VERY strong willed!

      Reply
  2. Farwin

    What a lovely post ! Your photos are beautiful. Rye reminds me of my time in Howth in Ireland.

    Reply
    • Helen

      Not been to Howth, I should take a trip.

      Reply
  3. Emily

    Now that is a good looking pooch. And the car isn’t bad either.

    Reply
    • Helen

      Good looking car and dog – made to be together

      Reply
  4. Jillian

    What a beautiful trip! And that is one adorable traveling companion!

    Reply
    • Helen

      He is a very lovely travelling companion – as is Edward too!

      Reply
  5. Cookilicious

    Omg..I love Herbert! It makes life so much easy if you can travel with pets, right!

    Reply
  6. Catherine Brown

    Excellent! Another place to add to my bucket list. Rye looks simply enchanting! Good to know about safety harness for dogs too. Thanks for sharing.

    Reply
    • Helen

      The car harness is so important for everyone’s safety.

      Reply
  7. Tisha

    This looks like such a wonderful trip! And an adorable companion!

    Reply
    • Helen

      he is such a sweetie!

      Reply
  8. Veena Azmanov

    Thank you for sharing these lovely pictures, they are all so interesting. You have described every picture so uniquely.

    Reply
  9. Harriet

    5 stars
    This looks idyllic and a perfect stay for a mini break. There are so many places I’ve heard of but never visited yet.

    Reply
    • Helen

      A really lovely part of the UK/

      Reply
  10. Diana Black

    5 stars
    Oh look at your dear Herbert, he is beautiful! He looks very comfortable in the car. Looks amazing Helen, what a wonderful post to read.

    Reply
    • Helen

      Thank you. He loves being close to me so travelling on my lap is his far preferred way to go.

      Reply
  11. Lorna Hindmarsh

    5 stars
    We have dogs, so it is such an important factor to consider them in your holiday planning. Always nice to find a suitable hotel that is dog friendly. The Gallivant looks great.

    Reply
    • Helen

      We loved The Gallivant, they really appreciate that dogs are part of the family

      Reply
  12. Kristy D

    5 stars
    Gosh, I always love seeing photos of beautiful places in The UK. I haven’t been in a long time and really would love to visit again. I’d definitely love these places, just stunning. And your dog is gorgeous.

    Reply
    • Helen

      Thank you We certainly think Herbert is very handsome,

      Reply
  13. William Harris

    5 stars
    Such a beautiful part of the country, and the history is fascinating. You could easily spend a week snouting about.

    Reply
    • Helen

      Absolutely. And all that lovely English wine to try too.

      Reply
  14. Sally Potter

    5 stars
    Hastings and Rye are fantastic places to visit. Looks like you had a great time, and the car sounds brilliant.

    Reply
    • Helen

      The car was such fun to drive in.

      Reply
  15. Victoria

    I have to laugh at your mention of celeriac, it’s actually something I have vowed to conquer having sampled it recently at a restaurant.

    Great photos of some fantastic places and Herbert is a total pro model.

    Reply
    • Helen

      We love celeriac – so delicious – really good in soup with an apple.

      Reply
  16. Alex Gladwin

    So many of these places sound amazing, especially Hastings as I love history. Also your dog is so adorable and that car is just amazing looking!

    Reply
    • Helen

      Thanks Alex, it was such a fun trip for a few days.

      Reply
  17. Sarah Bailey

    It looks like you had the most amazing time exploring the Sussex Coast. How cute is your dog as well, he totally looks like he is king of the road trip!

    Reply
    • Helen

      Herbert was king of that car! He appreciates the finer things in life it seems!

      Reply
  18. Rhian westbury

    I think it’s nice that you’re thinking of your dog when you’re going away so you can take him with you x

    Reply
    • Helen

      he is part of the family – wouldn’t be a holiday without him.

      Reply
  19. Rachael

    Aw what a beautiful post, your photos are gorgeous. Glad you enjoyed the bmw!

    Reply
    • Helen

      the car was AMAZING!

      Reply
  20. Becky Wilkinson

    We used to holiday in this area when I was small so I have fond memories of these towns, this post certainly brought back some lovely family memories. Thanks x

    Reply
    • Helen

      Its a lovely area of the UK – really nice to visit

      Reply
  21. The London Mum

    5 stars
    Wow! What a car! It’s stunning.. and I love the places you visited.. definitely something to try and do next year!

    Reply
    • Helen

      the car was amazing and such fun!

      Reply
  22. Lewis Johnson

    That dog is so cute.

    Reply

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Headshot of Helen Best-Shaw, Food Blogger at Fuss Free Flavours I'm Helen, full time freelance food writer, photographer and blogger. On this site you will find my fuss-free recipes, travel and reviews. Learn more here
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